Loved up in Scandinavia

Not the typical honeymoon destination, granted. But Scandinavia (well, Denmark and Sweden) proved to be an excellent place to recharge the batteries and experience of bit of what my husband and I now refer to as 'infrastructure' tourism.

Our aim clearly wasn't to fly, flop and fry in the sunshine. That was soon proved right as we arrived in Copenhagen (by ferry and train) to be greeted with the highest levels of rainfall that the city had seen in over 50 years. It rained and didn't stop for a long, long time. So what started as denial-wear (cue new summer wardrobe) ended in waterproofs from head to toe, dawn until dusk. But still, what we do best as Brits is grin and bare the weather in all its extremities, or sheer persistence in this case. And so, our flashpacking tour of Nordic infrastructure wasn't impeded, it was just a bit damp.

The first point that I'll make is an obvious one, but cycling in Denmark makes a huge difference to the way its cities work. Cycling is the default transport mode. I knew I'd love it. But seeing it all in action really makes you think, 'well why don't we do this in the UK'? It will take commitment from the government and long-term thinking. Something that politicians here can't quite grasp as elections take precedence over good ideas. The infrastructure for cycling needs us to admit: 'We need to stop driving around cities and prioritise bicycles'. Can you imagine? Cycling utopia really grips you when you visit Copenhagen and other cities in Denmark (Aarhus was another one). It really is the perfect back-drop to this year's COP15.

It is worth mentioning at this point that my husband is an ethnographer. Often confused with espionage, ethnography as a research method is excellent at pointing things out by immersing one's self in or around the 'other'. Or becoming the ‘other’ in some cases. As travellers in Denmark and Sweden, we can report back on what we see and find but as far as becoming the ‘other’, our claims are weak. But all the same, we made some observations which can be refuted as ‘merely’ a set of assumptions based on what we perceive as the differences between living in a place where you know the social practices that shape everyday life and a fantasy place where you do not know from experience the social practices. In other words, the classic ‘grass is greener’ scenarios. But we’ll make some assumptions all the same, and expect some challenges in return.

People get on pretty well. We saw very few instances of public aggression – both passive and overt. We felt that personal space was respected even when we were close by to strangers. Yet their presence wasn’t felt. Our meal at Noma Restaurant was a classic example of this. Although being at one of the top restaurants on the planet, the atmosphere there was relaxed and fellow diners were close by. But at no point did they intrude on the enjoyment of the best meal I’ve ever tasted (oh my god, the Smoked Quails Eggs were unbelievable!).

Smaller divide between rich and poor. It’s either that or the Danes are good at hiding their wealth or their poverty. Despite high taxes, their quality of life is pretty good. And cycling is a great leveller too as people ride modest bicycles (unlike fast/expensive cars that we seem to worship in the UK and judge people by).

Children play and take risks. And they’re not fat and stressed. We sat by a beach near to an art gallery outside of Copenhagen and watched as groups of school children came down to explore. Some of them had a real sense of purpose as they scoured the beach for odds and sods. They climbed over rocks and perched on the edge of the pier under the watchful but not controlling eye of their (young and active) teachers. There was no fear of reprisal from either the teachers or the pupils who happily explored the beach.

Work and life in balance? OK, so we visited at the beginning of the summer season when days are long (almost endless) and the people are gearing up for holidays. If we imagine the Scandinavians in darkness for the rest of the year, however, perhaps their productivity levels are sky high, and when May hits, they down tools for time out. But we don’t really know. But what we did notice was that people finished work before four and were spending time with family and friends. Mosebacke Bar in Stockholm at 4pm on a Tuesday afternoon was absolutely packed with demand for tables in the sun at a premium. Or take Aarhus, for example, where people wondered along the beach at all times of the day and evening to enjoy the sculpture exhibition with their families.

Affordable and reliable public transport. Say no more really. Except there wasn’t much point upgrading to First Class in Sweden as standard was more than ok. And everything ran to the second. Gawd damn it.

Design we die for. Ask Mark at Danish Homestore in Nottingham. He’ll tell you about our unhealthy obsession of all things Danish, including lights, chairs, tables, tea towels (yes! they even make the most amazing tea towels we discovered in a Copenhagen department store). Husband Andy will explain our obsession in a curator-style way: “The Scandinavians embrace modernism (efficiency) without loosing craft skills – modern designs for living with a human/natural warmth (natural patterns of trees, leaves etc on many design products).” There you have it. Go Danish Design. It rocks.

Low crime, yet – few cameras?! This must really flummox the British urban planners: ‘Er, we believe more cameras equals a safer society.’ Well, b*****ks to that because it just ain’t true. More cameras equals distrust and distrust equals lack of respect which equals crime against property and other people.

I guess the list could go on. But for fear of ranting and criticising the UK’s short-comings too much, I thought I should let hubbie sum up:

“From my perspective it is an interesting thought experiment to consider how different the social experience is in a country with a small population that is governed conservatively, taxed highly (compared to UK/US), values education, craft skills (traditions), play and has a strong work ethic that is balanced against encouraging non-work and time on, not time off for consumer experiences. And which also appears, at least as a phantasmagoria, to be more equal/open whilst also being capable of collective decision making.”

An ecoescape story wouldn’t be complete without some helpful info on how to ecoescape in Sweden and Denmark. Here are just a few things we did on our flashpacking tour.

Louisiana Modern Art Gallery, outside of Copenhagen
Go and visit the exhibition on Green Architecture, running until 4 October 2009.
www.louisiana.dk/uk/Menu/Exhibitions

Noma Restaurant, Copenhagen
Michelin-starred and out of this world. I’m still dreaming about Smoked Quails' Eggs. The chefs forage for some of the ingredients like beach herbs. Incredible, incredible food. But book at least 3 months in advance.
www.noma.dk

Kolarbyn, Sweden
Stay in a Swedish forest in a hut. No electricity or running water. Instead a beautiful lake, natural spring, open fires, sauna and heaps of fresh air. Go wild. We had the ‘honeymoon’ suite which is a cute cabin with enormous double bed. Our 'package' included a hamper of homemade dinner and wine. www.kolarbyn.se

Take the train
It really is a pleasure in Denmark and Sweden. Quiet, clean, and spacious carriages. Reasonable prices, friendly staff. And you can book online for Swedish fares here: www.sj.se. That’s how we got very cheap first-class travel between Copenhagen and Stockholm. Oh how we miss the dignified ease of it all.

The wonderful world of wikis and web 2.0

My fiance sometimes works in schools with children. The other day he came home and said he learnt a new word that day from the kids and challenged me to 'translate'. The word was 'Neek'. And I knew exactly what it meant: it's a conjunction of the words Nerd and Geek. So perhaps meaning a Super Nerd, or whatever. The point was that Andy thought it was an apt way of describing me, or my latest project.

I've recently been immersed in the book: Wikinomics by Dan Tapscott (left). It's a history, critique, and celebration of Web 2.0. It goes into heaps of detail about how the web is changing and consumers are becoming prosumers and an important part of the creative process.

At about the same time I discovered Square Space - a platform for creating one's very own Web 2.0. It's full of widgets and wonderdum which allow you to piece together your own website or should I say 'platform' as websites are for losers - according to Wikinomics. So anyway, I tried it out for myself and got busy with the tools and functions and quickly realised that it was the answer to what I've been looking for and satisfies all that is good and great about Web 2.0. So hooray, ecoescape members will soon have their very own networking site which will grow organically and in line with what they want. Let's hope they like it! And I'll continue in my Neekness.

UK Holidays - Sold Out this Summer?

This story on Travel Mole highlights the surge in demand of UK domestic tourism this year. Good news for the environment and our lower carbon economy. And, of course, good news for the economy overall as travellers opt to support UK businesses.

UK holiday accommodation in July and August will sell out completely over the next few weeks, a leading domestic operator forecasts.

Self-catering company Hoseasons says areas such as Dorset, Somerset, the Isle of Wight and parts of Wales are selling out fast in addition to summer favourites Devon and Cornwall.

The rise in UK holiday bookings is put down to the strength of the euro, wider economic uncertainties and a reluctance to fly after increased fares and problems at airports with delays and baggage handling.

Last summer was also a wash-out is many parts of the UK due to flooding.

Hoseasons chief executive Richard Carrick said: “We have found that more customers than ever before want to jump in a car with the family and avoid the hassle and increased costs of an overseas break. Our message is that if you still want to just pack up and go, book now to avoid disappointment.

“This isn't solely an economic issue however, a growing number of holidaymakers are also rediscovering the joys of a UK break.

“There is a real ‘feel good factor’ amongst holidaymakers with the success of truly British events like Wimbledon and Glastonbury, combined with the great weather, all helping to demonstrate what the UK has to offer.”

VisitBritain chief executive Tom Wright said: "The findings from Hoseasons that the UK is set to have a great year as many operators see strong late demand for British holidays is great news for the British tourism industry.

“In the current economic climate, we are finding that Brits are taking another look at holidaying at home and are surprised by the range of experiences on offer.

“There are still some fantastic breaks out there, but we would suggest that if people are considering a domestic break they don't leave it until the last minute.”

The Food Maze

Not only do the ecoescape businesses create wonderful and memorable experiences for their guests, but many of the owners, it would appear, have further hidden talents!

Robert Elliott, owner of Aspen House, recently wrote and published the Food Maze (left) - a magnificent insight into the production and marketing of our food. It's a fascinating and deep read, and one which will have you thinking about the traceability off food. Read my review over on the ecoescape website or order a copy of the book for just £9.99 from Robert's website: www.reallifepublishing.co.uk.

Well done Robert! And we're looking forward to reading more from you soon.

David at the Yard Cafe

David at the Yarde Cafe
Originally uploaded by ecoescape

This is David at the Yard Cafe - the second business owner to be photographed with their copy of ecoescape. This one, located on Devon's Tarka Trail, is both a cafe and now a bunkhouse. We visited in May, hiring bicycles in Barnstaple, and riding about 20 miles to the eco-friendly bunkhouse.

ecoescape in the Cornish Guardian

Orchard Lodge B&B, one of our top 50 ecoescapes, recently appeared in their local newspaper - the Cornish Guardian, brandishing a copy of ecoescape. The article reads:

LODGE WITH A GREEN INSPIRATION
Date : 14.05.08

A couple who took over a North Cornwall business less than two years ago have made it into a prestigious new guide to eco tourism.

Orchard Lodge is one of only two B &Bs in the area to be featured in the latest edition of ecoescape, described as "the handbook to responsible escapism". Editor Laura Burgess visited the guest house run by Geoff and Shelley Barratt (left) during their first full season last year and describes some of the new renovation as "inspiring". The second edition, which has just been published by the Green Guide Company, also includes some of Cornwall's best known attractions, such as the Eden Project and Lost Gardens of Heligan.

For Geoff and Shelley it's one of a number of accolades gained in the past year.

Orchard Lodge, Boscastle achieved a gold award from the Green Tourism Business scheme and Shelley has been appointed an ambassador by the Cornwall Sustainable Tourism Project (CoaST) and invited to talk on sustainable tourism at conferences in Cornwall and the Scilly Isles.

"Were delighted that the guide chose to feature Orchard Lodge.

"We'd no idea we would get such a glowing report, we didn't think we would be important enough to be included" said Shelley.

The book is defining a new way to travel and "proving that we can enjoy the environment but leave no hint that we'd ever been there."

Ms Burgess said : "We don't have to go far to do this: we believe the best places to escape are closer than we had ever imagined.

"In the UK there are some of the most inspiring people and places to be found anywhere in the world: It just takes some fresh eyes and a new mind set to enjoy them."

At Orchard Lodge, Geoff and Shelley are already hard at work on more plans to develop the business. In the last few months they've joined farmers Liz and Anthony Brewer at their nearby B &B in a new scheme to produce their own pork for breakfast sausages, and only this week a new, state of the art, solar water heating unit has been installed.

"We want to get away from any suggestion that being green or environmentally friendly means a lowering of standards," added Shelley. "We think you can care and enjoy all the comforts we've traditionally been used to in Cornwall. In the Boscastle area, for instance, there are five gold award winners, proportionately more than anywhere else in the UK and in real terms more than for the whole of Greater London."

As members of Boscastle's Chamber of Trade and Commerce, Geoff and Shelley are also actively involved in planning for Boscastle's big festivals this autumn - the Food and Craft Festival on October 4 and 5, followed by Walking Week from October 6. This year the festival is raising money for the Precious Lives Appeal for a Children's Hospice in Cornwall. It will be launched with a charity concert on Thursday, October 3. Already more than 90 food and craft related businesses across the South West have signed up and chefs from leading restaurants such as Jamie Oliver's Fifteen Cornwall and Rick Stein's in Padstow will be giving demonstrations.

Lucky chocolates

I rarely win prizes. So when the little package arrived in the post this morning, I delighted at its contents - Choco La La Chocolates! Described as chocolates of gorgeousness, I soon found myself trying hard to resist eating them all in one go.

I won the chocolates on the Green Union website, as I'm trying to organise my green wedding for 2009. Signing up to a newsletter was little effort for my reward of Choco La La. The chocolates are all fairtrade and created to the highest eco standards - no plastic packaging here. Just minimal paper and a cool funky tin that I'll no doubt find a use for.

So it's back to the chocolates and luckily I have a year to go before I have to fit into that all important wedding dress.